From my original archive
Eritrea
Destination overview
About this destination
Eritrea lies on the Red Sea coast in the Horn of Africa. Asmara is its capital and stands on a high plateau. Its urban architecture includes notable buildings from the Italian colonial period.
Massawa provides a different setting, with coastal influences and a long history of maritime trade. The country's landscape ranges from highlands to arid lowlands and offshore islands. Tigrinya and Arabic are among the languages used, alongside several others.
The Dahlak Archipelago forms part of its Red Sea geography. Eritrea's cultural heritage reflects African and Red Sea connections, while its modern history includes a long struggle for independence.
My connection
Tourist visit.
Original archive notes and photographs
My original travel notes
Eritrea is a small country in eastern Africa, bordering the Red Sea between Djibouti and Sudan. It has a varied landscape that ranges from arid coastal plains to fertile highlands to volcanic mountains. The capital and largest city is Asmara, which has a distinctive Italian colonial architecture and a vibrant cultural scene. Eritrea has an estimated population of 3.7 million people as of 2023, with a growth rate of -0.11%. The population is composed of nine recognized ethnic groups, with the Tigrinya being the largest (50%), followed by the Tigre (30%) and the Saho (4%). The official languages are Tigrinya, Arabic and English, but many other languages are also spoken. About 50% of the population is Sunni Muslim, 40% is Orthodox Christian, and 10% follows other religions or beliefs. Eritrea is one of the poorest countries in the world, with a GDP per capita of $1,410 in 2019. It suffers from chronic food insecurity, water scarcity, environmental degradation, low literacy rates
Personal memories
In September 1995, I joined the crew of a sailing yacht for a 55-day voyage from Toulon in France to Tamatave in Madagascar. It was my fifth passage through the Suez Canal. We stopped in Alexandria, Assab, Djibouti and Seychelles before reaching Tamatave. There were four of us aboard: two couples.
The voyage was very enjoyable. We ate the food we had bought and fresh fish every day. One night, a whale shark followed us for a while—an unforgettable sight.
In Assab, we met another couple whose engine was giving them trouble. We tried to repair it without success, then attempted to tow their yacht to Djibouti. Strong monsoon winds and currents in the Bab el-Mandeb Strait defeated that attempt as well. They returned to Assab, and we met them again several days later in Djibouti.